Tuesday, September 06, 2005

The Kinabalu Trip

Okay, now here’s the basi story – the Kinabalu trip. I intended to write something earlier but I guess the enthusiasm just wasn’t there. If it was, I’d probably channeled it elsewhere. Anyway, here’s the light version of it.

What made the journey TO Kinabalu so interesting is because the day I was suppose to fly to Kinabalu, which was the Monday after my convocation, I was still in Tronoh that morning. I just woken up at 7 am and I was suppose to be at Sabah before sunset. My flight was at 3 pm. That’s the goal. Kinda daunting isn’t it? But not exactly impossible. But slip in a car breakdown in the middle of the equation and suddenly all hell broke loose. Yes, Valerie had a breakdown. 8 months of trouble-free service and then suddenly she decided to go bonkers. It was the crankshaft, yet again. At Gua Tempurung, on the North-South Highway, of all places. On the day I was in a rush, of all times. One can only imagine my despair and anguish. I was looking at missing the trip entirely. And that, was really painful.

And so came the tow truck and everything. The plan was I was supposed to arrive home before 11 am and then the whole family would push off to KLIA and would arrive there around noon all spick and span, checking-in and have a nice walk to the departure gate. Since this unfortunate incident had happened, at 12.30 pm, I only managed to get as far as Rawang. The panic button had long been pressed. I arrived in Gombak at 1.30 pm. I have to put my ass in an airplane seat in under in an hour and a half. I was already late.

A guy was suppose to send me home from the workshop and I had to drive the Pajero to the Taman Melati LRT station, park it, take the train to KL Sentral, take the 2 o’clock KLIA Ekspress and presumably be there by 2.30 pm, just nice for a last-minute check-in. Exciting? Only if I could make it.

So, I had only 3 minutes to pack some clean underwear, no time to even glance at lunch and I arrived at Melati at 1.33 pm. A few more anxious moments and I DID NOT make the 2 o’clock KLIA Ekspress train. So I had to board the 2.15 train. Now things has just gotten tighter. The check-in counter closes by 2.45 pm. The train and I were suppose to arrive at KLIA 2 minutes before that. Well, I only arrive at KLIA at 2.50 pm because the bloody train had to stop somewhere in Serdang. But miraculously, my mother managed to check-in for me after some desperate persuasion and the whole family end up running for gate A5. We were all huffing and puffing and I got leg cramps but we made it in the end. Yes, ladies and gents, we made it. We were the last passengers to arrive and they were some unfriendly stares but we made it.

But what’s all that had to do with Steve Martin and John Candy? Well, it was on the KLIA Ekspress that I remembered a movie titled ‘Planes, Trains and Automobiles’ in which those two Hollywood actors starred in that had Steve Martin in a familiar position that I was. Trying to reach his family for the holidays in time by means of various types of transportation – planes, trains and automobiles. Valerie, KLIA Ekspress and Air Asia, in reverse order for me. The only time that had me chuckling until I managed to buckle myself on board the 737. I could finally relax and decide what would be my first meal of the day (that is, whatever crap they have on board until I can get a decent one upon arrival). The plane bursts to full throttle on the runaway and took off as I kissed au revoir to Sepang as it disappeared under the clouds.
***
I stayed at the Pacific Sutera at Sutera Harbour and it is such a momentously beautiful place. It’s a 5 star hotel so I was every bit pleased. They say Tanjung Aru is equally good but I didn’t have the chance to check it out so I wouldn’t know.

The only disappointing thing about the place is that it only had a small portion of the beach to offer. So small the space that nobody even bothered to take a dip in the saltwater sea. Most of them just prefer to chill at the pool, which was fantastic as expected. It even has Koi ponds with little bridges over them in tiny parks scattered in the surrounding area. But what impressed me most is the marina. It looks like a smaller version of Monte Carlo to me (as if I actually been there). I was so jakun, admiring all those delightful little yachts. There was no 300-ft, Abramovich-esque yachts but nevertheless equally enjoyable watching them. With an added touch of some sea breeze you could only wonder when you’ll be able to afford one of those things.

The city of Kinabalu – well, I must admit I had high hopes for this experience but was left virtually unimpressed. It’s a city, yes, but more structurally rather than geographically. It does accommodate some moderately-high buildings but the span, goodness me, not that big I’m afraid. I have been to larger townships in my lifetime. I think backpackers would be incredibly surprised at how fast they can cover the whole city area. Even I, with a bit of determination, can cover the whole city, end to end, in less than a few hours. But why go through the trouble, right? I only had the energy to bask in my arrogance. So my plan of spending a whole day ‘exploring the city’ had ended by midday. I visited every so-called shopping complexes in KK and none of them can even beat Alpha Angle at Wangsa Maju in terms on coolness. The only cool thing at KK was the waterfront which I spent about an hour watching a few local women catching small fishes using bamboo rods. It was really fascinating. They must doing that for everyday as a source of livelihood. Makes you feel guilty for every fish that you membazir at home just because they taste tak sedap. These people work so hard that even fishes the size of handphones can be a source of income.

I continued walking around the waterfront while my brother tries to bargain some pearl bracelets from the Filipino Bazaar. It is such a calming place, that is until nightfall.

At nightfall (that’s 6.30 pm for the people here), the waterfront bursts into life. It was like a pasar malam, with an ethnic Borneo touch. People were selling all kinds of different foodstuff and even seashells but my favorite is the area behind the Filipino Bazaar where some hawkers set up dining tables and offer fresh ikan bakar from catches of the day. You just pick which ones of the offerings that you want, take a plastic stool, have a seat while they put a plate of nasi putih in front of you, a plastic glass beside a jug of ais kosong and a jar of sambal. Wait a few minutes until your fish arrives and bon appetite! Old school dining. Makan selekeh-selekeh pun tak kisah because, honestly, I don’t think anyone bothered. Sure the complimentary breakfast at the hotel is awesome but this too is equally satisfying. If you want, you can add a few more tit bits from the ‘pasar malam’ next door like I did. I had a load of chicken wings and they were quite good too. Nasi putih, ikan bakar, chicken wings, di bawah sinaran lampu mentol, by the waterfront, isn’t that cool or what?

Tired of the city, the siblings decided to do a bit of nature as the next form of activity the next day. So we decided to check out the Tunku Abdul Rahman Park. What is that? Well, let me paste something…

Tunku Abdul Rahman Park is a State Park created to protect the natural enviroment, including the coral reefs, marine life, the fauna and flora. This park is lying from 3km to 8km off Kota Kinabalu which comprises of 5 islands. They are Gaya Island , Manukan Island , Mamutik Island , Sapi Island and Sulug Island. During the British rule in 1882 , a trading settlement was set up in Gaya Island by British North Borneo Chartered Company. This company later shifted to the mainland Kota Kinabalu. After 92 years , finally in 1974 ,Gaya Island and the whole of Pulau Sapi was gazetted as the Tunku Abdul Rahman Park , named after the first Prime Minister of Malaysia.. This gazetted place covers an area of 8,990acres (3,638 hectares). In 1979 , it was increased to 12, 185 acres (4,929 hectares) with the inclusion of the other 3 nearby islands such as Manukan Island, Mamutik Island and Sulug Island.

Capische? Okay, so due to financial and time constraints, we weren’t gonna go to every island. So we picked two, the biggest one – Manukan, and a slightly smaller one – Sapi. We took a very bumpy boat ride to the island and I couldn’t help but think to myself, since I left for Kinabalu, I was in a car, in a train, on a plane and now on a boat. Land, air, rail, water – I did it all. Quite a feat.

Upon arrival we were greeted by a sign which is now has become my mother’s favorite phrase – take nothing but pictures, leave nothing but footprints. Suddenly you feel all that ‘protect the environment’ vibe. But that’s exactly what we did – just chillin’ on the white sandy beach. Mainly because you even have to pay to go into the water. And if you want to go snorkeling but don’t have the gear, you have to rent them, and they are ridiculously priced. Man, we even had to pay just to BE on the island. So in the end we just sat on the beach and tengok orang. That was Manukan, our first stop. We spent an hour and a half there before we shifted to a cozier Sapi. On the boat ride to Sapi I managed to board alongside a vivacious Italian girl, wearing a one-piece black bathing suit, covering her flawless bronzed skin. Unfortunately she was with her whole other family and her father is a really intimidating figure. A 6-ft, well-built, white haired Italian that goes by the name of Carlo. I wouldn’t be surprised if he is a bona fide Roman consigliere. But let’s get back to Sapi.

Sapi is also a delight. Less spacious than Manukan but nevertheless enchanting. We were suppose to spend 2 ½ hours on Sapi so right after having a simple lunch I dozed off on the beach. It was really relaxing. The cool, soft sand under your back, the caressing sea breeze, the faint sounds of children laughter in the background, the swaying of the trees, aah no wonder I crept into dreamland. By the time I woke up, the beach was almost deserted as people had started to leave. I had my feet dipped into the water just to get the feel. Pocketed a few dead corals washed ashore as a souvenir. I wonder if that’s illegal. But anyhow, the nature trip was good. Even though the view of the fishes from the jetty in the crystal clear water is impressive, I remembered I had a better experience at the Pulau Payar Marine Park at Langkawi. There were a lot more fishes and corals, and they even had a ‘feed the sharks’ session, which I personally thought was really cool. It reminds me of Sherman.

But since my stay in Sabah is only for 4 days and 3 nights it was soon time to leave. A few more chillin’ time at the pool and more visits to the ‘hip’ town centre made up for the rest of our free time. Geez, I even had time to watch Gol & Gincu at Kinabalu, such is that my mati akal tak tau nak buat apa. And the movie theatre is not that good either. It’s a refurbished old school cinema house. It’s clean and decent but there’s no padding on the wall so the sound echoes from the movie. That’s among its many flaws. And it was suppose to be the best GSC in the whole of Kinabalu! Enuff said.

Upon leaving, it is now official that I have visited every state in Malaysia. All 14 of them (that is, if you exclude Labuan. I don’t think I even want to go there. What’s in Labuan anyway? People say it’s like Brunei where by 8 at night, everybody went home already and all the shops in the city dah tutup kedai. Ish lagi la mati kutu camtu). It took me 23 years but I finally made it. The only regret that I have was that I didn’t have the chance to visit Mount Kinabalu. Quite ridiculous, isn’t it? To visit Kota Kinabalu but not to Mount Kinabalu. Macam tak cukup syarat lak. Tak cukup masa maa. It’s a whole day event. Kena sewa van la, 2 jam travel la, and not to mention a few hundred more terbang melayang. Takpe la. Maybe some other time. But overall, a good time. I enjoyed my vacation. But if next time an opportunity to visit the island of Borneo should arise, I would like to visit Sarawak. I couldn’t even spell my name the last time I was there. So young I was. It would be interesting to see what’s been brewing for the past two decades. People say a lot people, especially the people from Semenanjung, underestimate the beauty of Sarawak. I think I’m one of those people, and I would glad to be proven wrong. Maybe I could even hire Jes to be my travel guide. That is, if I wanted a tour of Bintulu. She’s only been there a few months so I think any attempts of venturing out of Bintulu would result in both of us getting lost. Yep, it’s confirmed. I SMSed Jes and she doesn’t even know where Mulu is. So, note to self: Jes as a travel guide – confine only to Bintulu town center. So, till next time posse, cheers.

2 comments:

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The Gerbil said...

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